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Tracing the biographies of textiles in the transition of medieval to modern times: Wool fabrics and brigandines from an Iberian castle
Journal of Archaeological Science ( IF 2.8 ) Pub Date : 2024-04-04 , DOI: 10.1016/j.jas.2024.105974
María Martín Seijo , Joeri Kaal , César Oliveira , Marta Portillo , Eva Panagiotakopulu , Andrés Teira Brión , M. Conceição Oliveira , Santiago Vázquez Collazo

Findings of archaeological textiles and fibres in Northern Iberia are extremely rare. The occurrence of a set of textile fragments, dated between the 14th and 16th centuries CE at the Pambre castle (Palas de Rei, Lugo, Spain) is exceptional. The original stone roof of the southeastern tower was intact. The dark, cold and moist conditions inside the tower favoured the preservation of a unique series of waterlogged textile remains. In addition, a set of pseudomorphs preserved by mineral replacement were recovered from the east edge of the north wing in the main hall of the castle. Fibres have been identified using optical and scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and they have been chemically characterised using Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectroscopy (EDX). We also performed analytical pyrolysis-GC-MS (Py-GC-MS) and thermally assisted hydrolysis and methylation (THM-GC-MS) of the wool fabrics and pseudomorphs to assess their state of degradation and the presence of chemical markers associated to the use of these textile remains. High performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD-MS) and ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (UHPLC-HRMS/MS) analysis were applied on wool fabrics to identify the chemical markers of dyes but without success. To expand the information related to raw material identification and the technical aspects of the fabrics, further evidence such as adherences identified as opal phytoliths, seeds, and insect remains associated to wool fabrics were examined. These findings offer a unique glimpse into the clothing dated to the end of the Medieval period, and its life-cycle. Wool scraps were probably part of at least two different garments, whereas the mineralised textiles probably formed part of at least two brigandines which were made of bast fibres, flax, or hemp.

中文翻译:

追溯中世纪向现代过渡时期纺织品的传记:来自伊比利亚城堡的羊毛织物和镶边

伊比利亚北部的考古纺织品和纤维的发现极为罕见。潘布雷城堡(西班牙卢戈的雷宫)出土的一组公元 14 世纪至 16 世纪之间的纺织品碎片非常罕见。东南塔原有的石质屋顶完好无损。塔内黑暗、寒冷和潮湿的条件有利于保存一系列独特的浸水纺织品遗迹。此外,在城堡主厅北翼东缘还发现了一组通过矿物置换而保存下来的假像。纤维已使用光学和扫描电子显微镜 (SEM) 进行了鉴定,并使用能量色散 X 射线光谱 (EDX) 对纤维进行了化学表征。我们还对羊毛织物和假体进行了分析热解-GC-MS (Py-GC-MS) 和热辅助水解和甲基化 (THM-GC-MS),以评估其降解状态以及与羊毛织物相关的化学标记物的存在。这些纺织品遗骸的使用。采用二极管阵列检测的高效液相色谱 (HPLC-DAD-MS) 和超高效液相色谱与高分辨率质谱联用 (UHPLC-HRMS/MS) 分析羊毛织物来鉴定染料的化学标记物,但没有成功。为了扩展与原材料鉴定和织物技术方面相关的信息,检查了进一步的证据,例如与羊毛织物相关的蛋白石植硅体、种子和昆虫遗骸的附着物。这些发现为我们提供了对中世纪末期服装及其生命周期的独特视角。羊毛废料可能是至少两件不同服装的一部分,而矿化纺织品可能是至少两件由韧皮纤维、亚麻或大麻制成的长袍的一部分。
更新日期:2024-04-04
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